I’ve tried to get use it to it but it’s so difficult. My main question is how do I use the Set Zero function?
on the range finder?
if you’re on PC when you scope it will give you the distance in red blue being the range finder.
Press V to alter the scopes range finder i.e. red = 500, set blue = 500.
The first thing you would want to do would be find the range of your target either using you PLD or using the Range Finder attachment. Once you know the range you want to set your zero function closest to that range. If the range isn’t a perfect scale of 100 you will still have to aim higher or lower than your target. The hash marks in your scope are in 100m increments.
So lets say your target is 356m away, you can either set your zero function to either 300m or 400m. If you set it to 300m then you would aim above your target about halfway between the center of your crosshair and the first hash mark below it and this is most traditional way of doing it. Now you could also set it 400m and aim below your target, but this time putting it halfway between the center and the hash mark above it.
Now I know it seems absurd to consider the second option, but say you have a target at 396m, it would be much easier to set it to 400m then aim just barely below your target, and it has come in handy more so than not, for me anyway.
If you need anymore explaining I will try to help you out as I can. Just head to the test range to really try this out for yourself.
It should be noted the that not all snipers behave the same especially the SRR due to its high range. I set it to about 300m for about 400m targets, but this is something you would just how to work yourself through practice.
also this only works when you are at the same level as your target, if youre are elevated you don’t need as much zero-ing. Likewise if you are below the target which you will need to compensate by just increasing your aim up a bit.
It should be noted the that not all snipers behave the same especially the SRR due to its high range. I set it to about 300m for about 400m targets, but this is something you would just how to work yourself through practice.
This, definitely. The ranges numbers in the Set Zero function appear to use the first intro sniper rifle as a base. I’ve used rifles with a rangefinder and have the set zero function still shoot way too high.
If you are playing conquest or rush, I usually just use the distances of my allies or the objectives to zero in.
wow thanks!
A few things to keep in mind, that I’ve learned coming into BF4 as I feel like I’m starting to really hit my stride with snipers.
Your Inclination and Declination are almost as important as the range of your target. Said simply, are you aiming up or down? On maps where your target might be on top of a sky scraper or on a crane - or you might be up there aiming down - the inclination and declination can play a large factor.
If you are aiming up or down and your rifle is at a 45 degree angle, you should compensate for bullet drop off by roughly half. As you approach vertical, the compensation required approaches zero.
The idea here is that the second the bullet leaves the barrel gravity starts to take affect on it, causing it to drop. But, if you are aiming straight up, gravity is pulling the bullet “backwards” thus not altering a straight trajectory, and if you are aiming straight down gravity is pulling the bullet towards your target.
This, plus range, plush movement of the target, plus that almighty headshot are all factors that can be overwhelming in the heat of battle.
I spent quite a lot of time on the training map just getting a good idea for the trajectory of the bullet when being fired near horizontally. Thing I did was I used one of those wooden observation stands and aimed at the same point from 100m 200m 300m etc etc taking specific note of where I was aiming, and where the bullet hit. Once you get further out of 200m on your target you can start to see the path of the bullet as it travels through the air - this is great for imprinting in your mind what that path looks like.
Practical application: as I’ve really settled in with the current rifle I’m using, I’ve found that I change the Zeroing function much less and I trust my instincts and experience to tell me how to compensate for bullet drop by A) The size of the target in my scope (8x) 2 dots tall? 3 dots tall? and B) the mental image of the trajectory of my bullet. The last thing I want is to set my scope to 200m, make a kill and then have to quickly fire on an enemy at 100m and miss because my rifle is still set for 200m.
The biggest wrench that can be thrown into my accuracy is changing up my scope. Changing from, say, a 8x scope to a 20x scope is hard because a target who is 2x dots tall in an 8x scope is now between 4 and 5 dots tall in a 20x scope giving the impression the target is much closer to me and thus throwing off my aim. The power of the scope, though, has little bearing on your shooting if you are range finding all of your shots. The only change is that on an 8x scope 1 dot in your scope could represent 100m. In a 20x scope it might represent 300m. Meaning: if you are Zeroed to 200m and your line up your shot on the first lower mil dot, you are actually aiming 500m down range.
TL;DR - Pick one Rifle and one range scope and go to the test range and learn how the bullets behave relative to your aim and your sight. Spend plenty of time getting comfortable.
Its not as cut and dry as all the people are saying here. It really depends on the rifle you are using.
Sniper rifles in BF4 work different than any other gun as they have bullet drop and a gravity setting. Normal gravity is like 9.1 cubed or something like that. Most sniper rifles fall under this gravity setting, however there are a few that are different.
Lets look at the Scout Elite. It has 630 bullet velocity. One of the faster bullet speeds for rifles in the game. Max is 650 on the M98b. This means your bullet will travel further before dropping right? So the scout at 630 seems pretty damn elite. However, its gravity setting is 15m cubed. Which is absolutely terrible. Its clear this rifle was meant to be used at short ranges with a suppressor. A suppressor will bring its velocity down to 530 or so, but it works with this weapon.
Another example is M98B vs The SRR-1.
M98B has 650m Bullet velocity. Fastest in game.
SRR has 620 or so. Slower.
Clearly the M98 is better correct? Wrong. The SRR has 6m3 gravity setting. Which means while its bullet only goes 620m it will NOT start dropping before the M98 does.
The m98 has 9.1 gravity setting for reference.
So what does this mean, and how does it effect zeroing? Well.
At long ranges lets say 550. You will have to set zero to 500 and aim higher with the M98 than you would with the Srr-1. In reality with the SRR-1 you can set zero at 200 and if a target is at 230, you really only have to aim for the top of the head as the bullet will not drop that much. However, the bullet will arrive to target quicker using the M98b, so for longer range on moving targets this may be the rifle for you.
So it all comes down to what works for YOU. Some guys like the 9.1 gravity setting with the faster bullet. Which means the bullet will arrive to target faster, however you must compensate for more drop.
Do you want your bullet to arrive a little slower and have not as much drop? Its all up to you.
First find the rifle you like. Then look up its stats. Then go from there.
Personally I use the SRR-1.